1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Fuel Filter Replacement Pt.2 of 2

How To Replace Honda’s Fuel Filter With NON-Honda Filter

On A 1985 Honda GL1200 LTD with CFI

Part 2 of 2

(Back to Part 1 of 2)

Normally the fuel filter replacement is simply reversing the above process, however since the original Honda filter is being replaced with a non-Honda filter there are a couple of minor modifications needed.

The first thing you need to do is to bend the retaining bolt end of the band in toward the bike slightly.  You do not want to straighten the band, just bend the flange end enough for the “new” retaining bolt (M6-1.00 mm x 65) to go straight into the female threads next to the frame.  I used Vice-Grips to accomplish this by holding the new filter in place, then bending the flange a little at a time until the bolt could be slid through the band with the tip aligning properly with the threads.  Also, while the filter was off the bike I removed the band itself from the bike, after bending it’s end to the proper position, scraped some rust off of it, then repainted it.

After you’re sure the bolt lines up properly you can move on to the next step.  Place the fuel filter inside the band, then attach the fuel lines to the filter (finger tight only at this point) in the same position they were in on the old filter, turning the bolts clockwise.  Slide the bolt (and the washer held next to the bolts head) through the band and start tightening the bolt by hand until it has a good grip… probably 4 or 5 complete turns of the bolt.  Now you can use the wratchet and socket to tighten the band firmly around the fuel filter.

The bolt I used was only threaded about 3/4’s of an inch up the bolt, but still tightned up enough to hold the filter securely.  I felt this would look better than threads showing on the bolt next to the filter.  If the bolt you use is designed the same as mine, and you feel the band should fit a little more snug around the filter, simply loosen the bolt, take a piece of an old inner tube (or a strip of cork), trim it to the width of the band, then place it between the filter and the retaining band before re-tightning.  If you use an inner tube it’s black and blends in with the band and the filter appearing like it was supposed to be there.  If you use cork you may want to paint it black, and let it dry before installing, so it doesn’t stand out.  Remember, on this bike the fuel filter is not hidden behind a panel and is easily seen.

Now that the filter is held snugly in place you need to tighten the banjo fittings until they are snug.  Check for fuel leaks by turning on the ignition for 3 or 4 seconds, No Longer!  One source suggests doing this several times to “prime” the filter.  I don’t know if “priming” is necessary, however it wouldn’t hurt to do so to be sure fuel doesn’t seep out and cause a fire once the engine gets hot.

Having a problem after replacing the fuel filter is rare, however I recommend checking the fittings for leaks immediately after starting the bike, then again after driving it for 5 minutes… just to be on the safe side.  You can re-tighten the fitting(s) in just a few seconds if necessary.  It takes much longer to replace the bike, and/or be treated for burns, because you were “in a hurry”.

As some of you know I haven’t had this bike very long, and it was in storage for a long time before I purchased it.  Because of this I decided to drain the fuel filter that came on the bike through a coffee filter and into a clear jar to see what kind of sediment, if any, was in the fuel system.  This is what I found.

The fuel looked a bit watery, and before the sediment dried on the filter it looked dark and resembled what I’ve seen from fuel lines that were decomposing on the inside.  After it dried I could tell it was sandy in appearance and there were no fuel line particles in the mix.  This definitely made me feel better about the condition of the bike.  When it comes to my transportation I prefer to err on the side of caution so at some point before I put the bike on the road for any distance more than just around the block I plan to pull the fuel tank, clean it, then replace the fuel lines and check the intake screen on the injector pump during the re-install.  I’ll try to remember to document this process when I have time to take on the task.

Happy (and safe) Biking!


8 thoughts on “1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Fuel Filter Replacement Pt.2 of 2

  1. Pingback: 1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Fuel Filter Replacement Pt.1 of 2 | Dixie Riders

  2. Thanks just bought mine and am going through the standard Belts and filter replacments. I did go with the Honda filter, Not a Fram fan. Now I know what to expect during the change. Awesome Job.

    • Hi Joe, thanks for the feedback. 🙂 I prefer Honda’s filter also, but in the area I lived in at the time this post was written getting any Honda part was like pulling teeth without a pain killer. The filter listed in the article was the only one in a list of possible replacement filters still available. I understand that now even those are hard to come by, so I purchased a couple of extras. Good luck with your “new” bike. I hope yours serves you well. I know you’ll enjoy riding it! Take care and ride safe.

      NOTE – For those accessing this blog through the URL (.com address) rather than directly through Word Press – Our .com address has changed. You now need to access us by using this link – http://www.dixiesriders.com (that’s with an “s” between Dixie and Riders)

  3. Pingback: 1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Fuel Filter Replacement Pt.1 of 2 | Dixie Riders

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